Saskatchewan is a windy province. In the early spring, the wind blew away half the apple blossoms. The surviving blossoms produced fruit, but most of that, too, was knocked off the trees in August.  Well, what do you do with a windfall of immature green apples, too sour to cook into sauce or pies? Mom’s maxim – why waste anything if you can use it, especially food?

Unripe or green fruits and vegetables are often the key ingredients for Indian pickles or achar, and that is exactly what Mom decided needed to be done with the green apples that littered the lawn after the wind whipped the trees like pinatas earlier this week. My sister informed me would be making apple pickles on Sunday afternoon (unless Mom cannot contain her excitement and wants to start at dawn).

Putting up Indian pickles involves a lot of cutting and cleaning fruit and vegetables, mixing or grinding spices, blending vinegar, acidic juices, and oils, improvisation and guesstimating and occasionally stained clothes. The recipe is never the same from one batch to another, neither is the method. Achar making is only mastered if your palate appreciates spice combinations and you develop an understanding of how the texture of vegetables change when pickled.

However, it helps if you have a genetic predisposition. The Salariya women (Mom’s side) are gifted achar makers. Chiagi, my grandmother made a legendary cured fish in oil and spices (Desi ceviche?), unheard of for vegetarians! Mom regularly makes vegetable pickles and donates them for langar at the local gurdwara. She’s a bit of a celebrity with the over-70 set. A spoon of her lovingly made condiments reminds them of familiar tastes from childhoods long past and homes far away.

But I can understand that because I too, have vignettes associated with Indian achar and  Canadian pickles encapsulated in my memory banks. Briefly follow me…

  • Age 5, India – I was a very picky eater, but I would eat a chapati if you gave me a mango or lemon pickle.
  • Age 6, SK, 1968 – Pickles come in a jar and are green? (Dill pickles)
  • Age 7, SK 1969 – The week between Christmas and New Year, Mom is overdue with my sister and in a hospital 25 miles away. Dad is with her. It has been snowing all week. Snow is up to second-floor windows. I am watching over the 6 and 5-year-old and have to feed them. I can’t turn on the stove, so the lunch menu is PBJ sandwiches and dill pickles.
  • Age 10, 1970, Vancouver – Indian grocery Store, My Dad, “Harbhajan, how many cans of Achar Pachranga?” as there were no Indian grocery stores in Saskatchewan in 1971.
  • Age 14, 1975 Saskatchewan – Summer vacation, had a bountiful garden, Mom decides to make pickles. Introduced to the joys of canning, earned one more Prairie Woman badge.
  • Age 17, University Residence SK – “What is that stuff? Can I try it?” I missed home so much, Mom would send me care packages with paranthas and mango or lemon pickle and my dorm mates looking over my shoulder. They were always mooching something.
  • Age 24, Saskatchewan – Mom asking who has been putting dirty spoons in the “achar” jar? Apparently, it has become a science experiment several times in the past few months. We all deny effusively, and later she catches Dad in the folly. This will be a bone of contention for years to come.
  • Age 52, Alberta – “You stop putting your spoon back in that jar. I specifically leave a plastic spoon in there, so you don’t do that”. My Aunt scolding my Uncle for double dipping into the achar jar. I laughed until I was incontinent. Discovering that the double dipping in the achar jar is a universal problem – priceless.
  • Age 56, 2018 – “Mom, I brought you some more lemons. I thought you might make some pickle. I can’t buy lemon pickle anywhere, at least nothing like you make. Maybe you could teach me how sometime.” Mom is sad. Dad has been gone for a year, and the void will never be filled. I know I can’t distract her, but I want to remind her that her children still need her.
  • Age 59, 2020 – Covid. Introspection. Fallen apples. Mom wants to make achar because she doesn’t want to see anything go to waste. I don’t want to waste another minute because she has so much left to teach me. She has always taught me – from the alphabet to achar making.

Please join me for A is for Apple Achar – Another Lesson at the Ghee Spot.

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